Turn shoe and method of manufacture



1948. A. vlGoRlTl-l Q 2,446,357

TURN SHOE AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Filed Oct. 17, 1945 2 Sheets-Sheet l 1 4. 1 7) Xx/Mm; @2217 BY I ir/ z' g 3, 1948- A. VIGORITH 2,446,357

TURN SHOE AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Filed Oct. 17, 1945 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 v ma Patented Aug. 3, 1948 TURN SHOE AND METHOD OF MANUFACTURE Anthony Vigorith, Cincinnati, Ohio Application October 17, 1945, Serial No. 622,875

9 Claims. (Cl. 36- -19) This invention relates to improvements in a turn shoe, and a method of manufacturing same.

An object of the invention is to facilitate and expedite the manufacture of turn shoes, with a substantial saving of time, labor, and materials.

Another object is to dispense with the use of complicated and expensive machinery to a substantial extent in the manufacture of turn shoes, and to so simplify the operations that superior shoes may be produced by workers having limited experience in the trade.

Another object is to produce a shoe which is more flexible and comfortable than the ordinary turn shoe, and which will possess desirable wearing qualities heretofore unattained in the production of turn shoes.

Another object is to produce a turn shoe which Will hold its shape longer than turn shoes customarily do, and which will better withstand the operation of re-soling by a repairman.

Another object of the invention is to produce a turn shoe which is built upon an insole, thereby eliminating the usual heavy outsole required for providing the customary channel in which the upper is usually fixed.

Another object is to make unnecessary the use of costly high grade materials in a turn shoe, as was formerly required.

The foregoing and other objects are attained by the means described herein and illustrated in the accompanying drawings, in which:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a shoe upper with a lining therein, cut and shaped for use in performing the method of the invention, the insole being not yet applied.

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of an insole such as is applicable to the upper of Fig. 1. i

Fig. 3 is a side elevational view of the shoe with the insole attached along the major portion of its length, the toe of the upper being unattached, and the upper being turned with its lining to the outside.

Fig. 4 is an enlarged cross-sectional view taken on line 4-4 of Fig. 3, and showing the shoe turned inside out.

Fig. 5 is a view similar to Fig. 3, showing the shoe in turned condition, that is, with the u per lining to the inside. I

Fig. 6 is a perspective view of a metal reinforced shank piece to be inserted in the shoe as illustrated by Fig. 5.

Fig. 7 is an enlarged cross-sectional view taken on line 1-4 of Fig. 5.

Fig. 8 is a bottom view of the shoe with the shank piece inserted and the toe and heel portions lasted in, the character 34 indicating a portion of the outsole.

As is well known in the shoe industry, the turn shoe has been widely accepted as oneof the most comfortable and flexible shoes available. However, turn shoes have always been expensive because of the complexity of the operations necessary to the turn shoe process of manufacture, and for the further reason that highly skilled labor and the best of materials hadto be employed. Although the use of high grade materials and workmanship resulted in the produetion of a fine shoe, certain disadvantages resulted from the manner in which the shoe was manufactured. For example, the ordinary turn shoe required the use of not less than a ten iron sole, but after the channel was cut into the sole to approximately half its thickness, about half of the wear of the sole was destroyed. In other words, when the sole wore through to the base of the channel, the shoe then began to spread out and fall apart, since nothing remained for holding the shoe together. Shoes thusly worn through to the base of the channel usually were found to be in such condition as to render impossible the re-soling or repair thereof.

All of the foregoing disadvantages have been eliminated by means of the present invention. In accordance with the invention,the turn shoe is provided with a flexible insole which readily permits turning, and neither the insole nor the outsole requires channeling in cementing theupper assembly to the outsole. Consequently, a much thinner outsole can be applied to the turn shoe made in accordance with the present invention, and since turning of the shoe is accomplished with less effort and destructive effect than heretofore, it is possible to employ common and less expensive materials in the manufacture of the shoe, in place of the costly high grade materials formerly required. Moreover, the major part of the work of constructing the present shoe can be performed in the fitting department, with the elimination of such equip ment as the assembly machine, the pulling over machine, and the side lasting staple machine. The entire shoe can be repfoduced using only an ordinary sewing machine, a bed toe lasting machine, and a seat lasting machine, it being possible of course to eliminate the last two machines in the production of toeless shoes having no counters in the heels.

Referring to Fig. 1 of the accompanying drawings, 12 indicates the shoe upper and I3 indicates the cloth upper lining within it. The member which forms the counter pocket is indicated at I4. In accordance with regular practice, the upper l2 which is shown inside the shoeFig. 4, may be made in two halves stitched together as at 15, it being customary for the seam to extend from toe to heel. The lining likewise may be formed of two or more pieces stitched together as at l6. Member I4, also of two pieces, may be stitched together at 1, and sewed along the edges at 18 for securing it to the upper lining. These parts are shown in the proper relationship upon Fig. 1 of the drawings, whereas in Fig. 3

they are shown as they appear when the upper is turned inside out.

The open :top' of the shoe, indicated at H, may be given any desired contour to satisfy the demands of style, and will ordinarily be hemmed, or beaded as shown. The lower edges of the upper will preferably be cut away at both sides "oil/he shoe between the toe portion Iii-I9 and"fthe.

heel portion 28-28, to conserve material .and

to provide for narrow flanges 'betwee'n th'ose' points, at which flanges the. upper is StillChBCif'tO the insole 23 as illustrated by Fig. 4, wherein the ill flanges are indicated at 2l--2 I, and the stitching i he insole 23, as illustrated by Fig. 2, has same 'eii'd fl and "a shank :end-Zligthe latter being foreshortened so asto reach approximately to the breastof the shoe heelwhen attached. fIhis insole may be of any flexible material, not necessarily'-'costly,-such= as split leather, composition, pig leathergor the like, and-array be as lightas 1. tofzx-iron rnaterial, as compared witlt the custo iary 3% iron-sole leathergenerally employed in any shoe manufacture tor -=anchoring..-the; edges 'of the shoe upper. M The insole 23. is not channeled 'or shivedfinany:mannenwhatsoever. For. establi'shing a uniform.- margin. along which lthe lowenedges o'f. the.upper may be stitched/as at 22, theinsole smaybesmarkedwith pencil on other 'lines-2'G'-:;25,i whichmdoenot .penetrate the surface: ofstheiinsolea Before. the: upperis stitched to..='the..in'sole, itiisfirst zturned inside. out, as. i]- lnstratedubyr Figs. 3. and:4, thestitching 22. being appliedwhilethe upperais inthis-condition. The

shoe then: presents .the appearance of Fig.- 3.

'i' l he-next: operation is t-hat of turnin the shoe hf =Eig. :3, t-o. disposethe lining .i 3 to the inside and expose the upper .mate'rial l 2. .This turningof the shoa-produces the :results i-ndicated. by. :5, o

wherein the upperiinirigistinside -the-shoeand thecii-nsole- 2-3 -i's=attached, with the stitohings "inside the shoe: ('Fig. 7:). EEt- WiH-Ehere:bei notedlthat the toe a'nd --'heell portions of -the upper remain free of attachment to-the insole.

the next opera'tion a heel :coun-ter will be iiiserted in the back "of 'the shoe, a's-by means of a counter pocket' generallyemployed for this purpose, and thenthe shank piece -2! ofFig: 6 wil-l be lplaced inside the.shoe witht'its heel end-2S abutti'ngi the back of the shoe. This places the shoe in condition fcr inserting-the lasti-ano -lasting the heeland toe. I

i in ilasting the iheel a'nd \to'e,- common :practice isn resorted to which usually consists in- :turning in -the toe and heel margins or J flanges i 9--l 9 iandf=2It -20,v as shown-in Fig.8,riand .-fastening them by means'oftacksor adhesive, or both. .=By way 0i Fexample, ithe toe r'material at .1 9-] a is lasted: and' secured. to theouter surface 'of the insole by means of an adhesive, whereasrat the heeL' the material Mi -20 is securely. tacked. to thei'shankipiece 2T, thetacks' being'shown at 30. Incidentally, the shankspiece oi ifiber on other boinparatively istifl material,..:may; be reinforced 2;

in snugly against the last with ease and rapidity, due to the extreme flexibility of the entire structure. I

The shoeis now ready for pounding and roughening of the insole bottom, after which the heel and the outsole 3d may be attached in the usual manner,.the latter by cementing it in place, or by 'lockstitching 35.

Ifdesired, a filler may be interposed between theoutsole and the insole, although this is not considered necessary in shoes constructed as herein disclosed.

A's 'will be readily appreciated, the outsole of this shoe, as well as the. insole, may be formed of light weight leather, composition, or the like, when adainty stylish shoe is required; and in so lightening the shoe there will be no sacrificing of, strength and wearing qualities as is the case when thesole is, channeled and cut partially through toward the wearing surface of thesole. Moreover, a shoe constructed as, herein disclosed may beworn until the outsole has practically disappeared, and yet the shoe will not-.spread.and fall apart, but will remain in good condition for resoling.

So far as the manufacturing process is concerned, persons skilled in the art of' shoe construction will readily appreciate the advantages of eliminating'the complex machineoperations performed by the assembly machine, the pullingover machine, and the side lasting staple :machine, with the result that the major portion of the work may be performed in the; fitting department of the factory by using ordinary sewing machines. Obviously, the savings of time, labor, and materials of a costly nature, are substantial and highly advantageous to the manufacturer, who gains the added advantage of producing without the aid of highly skilled labor. Finally, the purchaser gains theadvantage'of wearing an extremely flexible and comfortable shoe at low cost, with a wide choice'asto the weight of shoe desired. The shoe will of course presentthe same outside appearance as any single sole shoe.

What is claimed is:

I 1. The method of manufacturing aturn shoe, whichlmethod comprises the steps oiassembling an upper and an upper lining, turning saidassembly inside out, securing the side portions of the lower edges of the upper to a flat unchanneled insole, exclusive of the toe and heel portions of the upper, turning the connected upper and insole --right side out with the lining inside the upper, then inserting a shank piece inside them)- per, and thereafter preparing the shoe foroapplication of an outside to the insole,by-lasting-in the toe and heel portions of the upper.

2. The method of manufacturing a-turnshoe, which method comprises the steps of assembling an upper and an upper lining, turning-said-assembly inside out, securing the side portions Ofzth lower edges of the upper to a flat unchanneled insole, exclusive of the toe'and-heel portionsofthe upper, turning the connected upper and-insole right side out with the lining inside the upper, then inserting a. heel counter-and a metalreinio'rced shank piece inside the upper, and there- ":1 after preparing the shoe for applicationpf-an outsole' to the insole, by lasting-in 'th'e toe and heel portions of the upper.

' 3. The method of manufacturinga'turn shoe, whichmethod comprises thetsteps ofiasseinbling an upper and an upper lining, turning'saidas- 'seinbly :insidexout, securing the side -portions'bi the lower edges of the upper flatwise upon a flat insole which comprises a toe end and a heelless shank end, leaving the toe portion free of attachment to the toe end of the insole, turning right side out the connected upper and insole, with the lining inside the shoe, then inserting into the shoe a shank piece including a heel portion which reaches the back of the shoe upper, while the shank portion thereof overlies the shank portion of the insole, applying a last to the shoe and lasting-in the toe and heel portions of the upper onto the insole and the heel portion of the shank piece, respectively, and thereafter fixing an outsole in covering relationship to the insole and the lasted-in toe and heel portions of the upper, and applying a heel to the outsole.

4. The method of manufacturing a turn shoe, which method comprises the steps of assembling an upper and an upper lining, turning said assembly inside out, securing .the side portions of the lower edges of the upper flatwise upon a flat insole which comprises a toe end and a heelless shank end, leaving the toe portion free of attachment to the toe end of the insole, turning right side out the connected upper and insole, with the lining inside the shoe, then inserting into the shoe a heel counter and a rigidly reinforced shank piece including a heel portion which reaches the back of the shoe upper, while the shank portion thereof overlies the shank portion of the insole, applying a last to the shoe and lasting-in the toe and heel portions of the upper onto the insole and the heel portion of the shank piece, respectively, and thereafter fixing an outsole in covering relationship to the insole and the lasted-in toe and heel portions of the upper, and applying a heel to the outsole.

5. The method of manufacturing a turn shoe, which method comprises the steps of assembling an upper and an upper lining, and with the assembly turned inside out securing the side portions of the lower edges of the upper to the side marginal portions of a flat unchanneled insole, exclusive of the toe and heel portions of the upper, with the side edges of the insole extended outwardly beyond said lower edges of the upper as secured to the insole, then turning the connected upper and insole right side out with the lining inside the upper, thereby to dispose the insole wholly within the shoe, then inserting a shank piece inside the upper, and thereafter lasting-in the toe and heel portions of the upper to prepare the shoe for application of an outsole over the insole and the lower edges of the upper thereto secured.

6. The method of manufacturing a turn shoe, which method comprises the steps of assembling an upper and an upper lining, and with the assembly turned inside out securing the side portions of the lower edges of the upper to the side marginal portions of a flat unchanneled insole, exclusive of the toe and heel portions of the upper, with the side edges of the insole extended outwardly beyond said lower edges of the upper as secured to the insole, then turning the connected upper and insole right side out with the lining inside the upper, thereby to dispose the insole wholly within the shoe, then inserting a shank piece and a heel counter inside the upper, and thereafter lasting-in the toe and heel por-' tions of the upper upon the insole and the heel counter, respectively, to prepare the shoe for application of an outsole over the insole, the lower edges of the upper thereto secured, and the lastedin toe and heel portions.

7. The method of manufacturing a turn shoe, which method comprises the steps of assembling an upper and an upper lining, turning said assembly inside out, securing the side portions of the lower edges of the upper flatwise upon a fiat insole which comprises a toe end and a heelless shank end, leaving the toe portion free of attachment to the toe end of the insole and permitting the side edges of the insole to extend outwardly beyond the lower edges of the upper, then turning right side out the connected upper and insole, with the lining inside the shoe, then inserting into the shoe a shank piece including a heel portion which reaches the back of the shoe upper, while the shank portion thereof overlies the shank portion of the insole, applying a last to the shoe and lasting-in the toe and heel portions of the upper onto the insole and the heel portion of the shank piece, respectively, and thereafter fixing an outsole in covering relationship to the insole and the lasted-in toe and heel portions of the upper, and applying a heel to the outsole.

8. A turn shoe structure comprising in combination, a plain and flat unmutilated insole having a toe portion, a shank portion, and a ball portion, a heel shank piece, a shoe upper with a lining therein, the upper including a heel portion with a depending flange lasted to the heel shank piece, a toe portion having a depending flange lasted to the toe portion of the insole, and an intermediate portion including lower edges located between the depending flanges of the toe and heel portions of the upper, an evaginated connection securing the intermediate portion of the upper to the insole marginally at the ball portion of the latter, with the lower edges of the upper set inwardly from the insole side edges, a plain flat unmutilated outsole overlying the insole, the loweredges of the shoe upper, and the lasted-in toe and heel flanges, and means concurrently securing the outsole to the upper and the insole.

9. A turn shoe structure comprising in combination, a plain and flat unmutilated insole having a toe portion, a shank portion, and a ball portion, a heel shank piece, a shoe upper with a lining therein, the upper including a heel portion with 3, depending flange lasted to the heel shank piece, a toe portion having a depending flange lasted to the toe portion of the insole, and an intermediate portion including lower edges located between the depending flanges of the toe and heel portions of the upper, an evaginated connection securing the intermediate portion of the upper to the insole marginally at the ball portion of the latter, a plain flat unmutilated outsole overlying the insole, the lower edges of the shoe upper, and the lasted-in toe and heel flanges, and means concurrently securing the outsole to the upper and the insole.

ANTHONY VIGORITH.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file of this patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 509,566 Anthoine Nov, 28, 1893 1,386,357 Patton Aug. 2, 1921 1,395,639 Grundmann Nov. 1, 1921 FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 26,685 Denmark Sept. 10, 1920 308,135 Great Britain Mar. 21, 1929 

